Feb 26, 2024

I’ve never been to Miami but I imagine the vibe that it has, sexy, young, pulsing bass, electric, is similar to Thessaloniki. I suppose that’s a rather roundabout way of saying that I really like the energy here. I think I’ve built up a grand image of Greece in my mind as a world apart, in touch with gods of old, almost frozen in time in the warmest, sunniest way possible. The reality fulfills this prophecy. It feels like Italy with a dose or two of less fuss. 

I arived somewhat late n Friday night and opted to just walk around and get an early night before turning on. On Saturday morning I joined the most fantastic free walking tour led by a brilliant guide, Yiorgos. He managed to remember every single person’s name and inform us about the history of Thessaloniki and answer every single question AND play us a couple Rebetico songs. After a light lunch, Luca (a nonna’s dream, kind, open and caring Sicilian guy with a weightlifter’s appetite) and I went to his second tour, a dark history of a local former prison. That night we indulged in Gyro and taverna, appreciating the city’s massive young population (50% under 26, if I remember Yiorgos correctly. 

On Sunday morning I woke up somewhat late and caught a bus to… Mount Olympus, home of the gods, seat of Zeus. After a 1.5 hour bus, I landed in the quaint village of Litochoro, carved into the base of the realm of deities. Towering above the town are the gates to Olympus, massive cliff-ridden mountains that lead up to the true summit. The peak lies at the center of a huge national park. Due to a late start and the sheer scale, I only got a glimpse of the summit, even after a few hours of hard hiking. However, I think this was fitting. I was unprepared to grapple with the gods. I have vowed to come back, summit Olympus, and conquer Zeus himself!

The hike, while puny compared to the great heights above me, was still one of the most beautiful I’ve ever had. The valley I walked through was full of fogs and mists, fading in and out of existence, tumbling off of cliffs and rising from the clear water rushing through the gorge’s floor. The whole place had a feeling of ancient mystery, holiness, mysticism, and sheer power. The entire time I did not see a sign of a single other person. My solitude was so sure to me that I felt comfortable enough to strip and take a brief dip in a shallow pool of completely transparent water. It was truly a surreal moment, not just because the water was utterly frigid. I can now say I’ve skinny-dipped on Mount Olympus! Pretty insane. I am so lucky. 

I’ve decided to extend my time here by one day. I love the energy and I’ve met some cool people, plus the timing of busses and work calls works out well. On to Athens tomorrow!