Feb 23, 2024

I figure I’ll break from recent tradition and write this blog from a seat that is stationary (not a plane, bus, or train). Right now I’m sitting in a cafe-bistro in the heart of Skopje, North Macedonia. I arrived here on Wednesday morning after an early 5-hour bus from Sofia. It’s a fascinating city that seems to somehow draw elements from every other place I’ve ever been. There’s the ruins of a giant fortress across the river, an old stone house that Mother Theresa lived in, and a giant feudal tower. There’s a charming old town paved with smooth, uneven pavers and lined with shops of all kind selling kebab, gelato, and everything you’d ever want to buy. At the edge of the old town there’s a huge covered bazaar with a truly mind-boggling amount of brand new fast fashion items that seem like they’ll never sell (what do I know). There’s a mix of classic gritty eastern bloc apartment buildings and grand, almost Parisian filigree on pale offices and residential buildings. And to top it all off there’s a massive array of huge white marble national buildings and monuments that bring the whole city center together with a real soviet dictator sort of vibe. Truly a curious place!

In the main square there’s a massive fountain with a carved marble pillar at the center, adorned with a national hero astride a rearing horse. From a purely aesthetic standpoint, it goes so fucking hard. The ground is a single marble mosaic that is so bright, people stand around offering “Oakleys” for sale to the squinting masses shielding their eyes. 

My time here has mostly centered around work, there’s been a big project this week. I’ve had plenty of time to see the city, which is small, clean, and feels very safe. It has been primarily a solitary few days, which is perfect after an incredibly filling meal of fantastic social time in Sofia. After a big meal it can help to walk around and digest for a bit. 

My plans continue to evolve. I’ve changed them so many times at this point it feels utterly pointless to put much stock in them, and certainly there’s no point in sharing them here. Like hiking along a mountainous ridge on a foggy day, the only things I can detect are the path immediately in front of me and the vague outlines of craggy peaks far ahead.